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Mountaineering and Exploring

By Way of… The Ogre

 

About this book:

  • ISBN: 978 191 023 7373

  • Cloth cover (hardback)

  • Published October 2017

  • Price £18.00 + postage

  • 192 pages

  • Illustrated with 130 colour and black & white photographs and maps

 

About this book:

This book is a biography of The Ogre in two parts; the first part is concerned with the geological evolution and exploration from ancient times. This section involved a good deal of research by Doug Scott who had been to many of the places the European explorers first saw during eight visits to the Karakoram, the Central Hindu Kush of Afghanistan and Pik Lenin in the Pamir. The second part is more personal and covers the first ascent of the mountain and the drama of the descent with Doug having two broken legs and Chris Bonington’s smashed ribs. 

The Ogre is one of the hardest peaks in the world to climb

A long overdue account of the first ascent

One of the greatest adventure stores of all time

The Author writes:

I had the confidence to launch this expedition to the rocky Ogre peak with Clive Rowland because I had steadily, over the previous fifteen years, spent a good deal of time climbing steep rock with members of the Nottingham Climbing Club. In the 1960s I climbed the North East Face of the Piz Badile, the North Faces of the Tre Cime in the Dolomites, the classic rock climbs of the Western Alps including the Bonatti Pillar, the West Face of the Aiguille de Blaitiere. In 1970 we went over to Norway climbing a number of classic routes around Andalsnes including the highest big wall in Europe, the Troll Wall in seventeen hours of climbing. 
In 1971 I climbed for six weeks in Yosemite Valley in California, including 3,500 feet up the Salathe Wall on El Capitan with Peter Habeler. I returned to America in 1973 to climb the Nose of El Cap with Rick White taking five days in an effort to climb it as freely as possible. Also during the 1970s I organised four rock climbing expeditions to Baffin Island. In 1972 I climbed the 5,000 foot East Pillar of Mount Asgard, right on the Arctic Circle.
I also managed to organise several small overland expeditions to the Tibesti Mountains of Chad, Kurdistan and the Hindu Kush where we climbed the South Face of Koh-i-Bandaka (6,850m) in alpine style.  In the 1970s I was also invited on three expeditions to the South West Face of Everest eventually climbing to the summit of Everest in 1975 with Dougal Haston.


Somehow or other over the years I managed to go on more than 40 expeditions to the high mountains of Asia and many other mountain ranges. For about 20 years I was totally obsessed with mountains and going off with the boys climbing.  As I became old and feeble I directed my energies towards helping the people in Nepal, who had helped me climb their mountains, by building schools, health posts and porter rescue shelters. With the help of equally enthusiastic trustees and some 100 odd volunteers in Britain, Community Action Nepal has now set up and continues to support over 50 projects. 
In 1994 I was made a CBE and in 1999 awarded the Patron’s Medal of the Royal Geographical Society. I was most proud to be President of the Alpine Club from 1999 to 2001 and it was a great honour to receive the Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award in 2011 following on from Walter Bonatti and Reinhold Messner.

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